How to Build a 500HP - 600HP Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution I–IX
How to Build a 500HP - 600HP Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution I–IX
The Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution series, from Evo I to Evo IX, remains one of the most iconic performance lineages in automotive history. Built on the foundation of the turbocharged 4G63 engine and advanced all-wheel-drive systems, every Evo from I to IX can be transformed into a 500 - 600 horsepower street or track machine with the right modifications. This article will walk you through how to build a reliable, well-rounded Evo.
Engine Internals: Strengthening the 4G63 Across Generations
The Evo I - XI all use the legendary 4G63. The Evo I - III block is similar to the earlier VR4 block, from the Evo IV on Mitsubishi revised the block and rotated the engine 180 degrees.
Regardless of which generation you own, pushing the engine to 500hp requires a bottom-end rebuild. The stock rods and pistons were never designed to handle sustained high boost levels. Forged pistons from manufacturers like JE, CP or Wiseco offer the strength and reliability needed, while H-beam or I beam rods from Manley, Nitto or Carrillo can handle the elevated stress of high combustion pressures. The factory crank is pretty strong and does not require upgrading at this power level but if you do there are several manufacturers link Manly or Nitto that make high quality forged or billet cranks. It’s essential to pair these internals with ARP head studs, ACL race bearings and a multi-layer steel (MLS) head gasket to ensure proper cylinder sealing under boost. Most builders also choose to delete the balance shafts to reduce the risk of catastrophic failure at high RPMs, the best option for this is a GSC Balance shaft delete kit, alternatively the factory shafts can also be machined down.
The factory sump is adequate for street driving, but for track use, a baffled sump is strongly recommended. During high-speed cornering, oil can move away from the pickup, potentially starving the engine of oil and causing serious damage. An alternative solution is an Accusump system, which stores pressurised oil and releases it into the engine’s oiling system if pressure drops below a set threshold. This system can be activated either mechanically or through an ECU. The ultimate solution is a dry sump system, they are often expensive and complicated to set up.
Turbocharger Selection and Fabrication Needs
The factory turbochargers on all Evo I–IX models are efficient but too small for 500 - 600hp goals. A larger, modern turbo is needed—something like the Garrett GTX3076R, Precision 5858, or BorgWarner EFR 7670. These turbos support the required flow range while maintaining relatively quick spool characteristics. Correct turbo sizing in pretty complicated but essential to get right it is best to talk to a tuner or turbo specialist when selecting a turbo for your vehicle.
You should expect to modify or fabricate a new dump pipe, intercooler piping, and possibly relocate the radiator overflow or oil cooler lines depending on the turbo’s compressor size and intake pipe routing.
Silicon couplers will work but with higher boost pressures clam shell style clamps are strongly recommended.
ECU and Tuning: Managing the Power Safely
Tuning is the most critical part of any high-power Evo build. Evos VI through IX offer some flexibility with ECUFlash and EvoScan tools, allowing the factory ECU to be reprogrammed, especially on Evo VII–IX models which are well-supported in open-source tuning communities. However, for maximum flexibility, especially on early Evos or E85 fuelled cars, a standalone ECU is recommended. Popular options include Link G4X, Haltech, and Motec. These ECUs allow full control over fuel and ignition maps, launch control, flex-fuel systems, boost-by-gear, and advanced knock control.
For Evo I–III owners, standalone management is a necessity, as the factory ECUs are too limited. You’ll need to run a speed-density setup, eliminate the factory airflow meter, and install a MAP sensor and intake air temperature sensor.
Wiring
For reliability, replacing old or damaged wiring with a loom made from Milspec wire and DR25 heat shrink is the best solution. These materials offer exceptional durability and heat resistance. Extra sensors are not essential but recommended to help with engine protecting and to monitor engine health. Suggested sensors include, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Fuel Pressure and a Wideband sensor.
Relocating the battery may also be required for space in the engine bay, ensure the right size cable is run to minimise voltage drop. We recommend using a 50mm2 cable if the battery is relocated to the boot/trunk, this insure maximum performance from the starter motor while cranking.
At Evolving Motorsport we offer custom wiring from club level looms to full motorsport harnesses, or vehicle specific connector kits, and wiring materials for those who prefer a DIY approach.
https://evolvingmotorsport.co.nz/collections/connector-kits
Fuel System: Supporting the Power You’re Aiming For
Fuel delivery is another critical area that must be upgraded to support 500hp - 600hp. Whether you’re running 98 pump fuel or E85, your injectors and fuel pump must be sized accordingly. Typically, 1200cc to 1600cc injectors from Injector Dynamics or Bosch are sufficient, with E85 builds requiring the higher end of that range. Many Evo owners choose a Walbro 450LPH in tank pump or a lift pump and inline pump set up. If you plan on running E85 make sure the fuel pump you choose is E85 compatible, as ethanol can corrode no compatible components. Wiring upgrades are necessarily to run bigger fuel pumps, the size of wire will depend on the current draw of the specific pump.
An aftermarket fuel rail, AN braided lines, and a high quality adjustable fuel pressure regulator like the Turbo smart FPR1200 are all necessary to maintain consistent pressure under boost. Surge tanks are optional for street cars but are essential for track cars.
Intake, Exhaust, and Cooling Systems
The engine’s ability to breathe is just as important as fuelling and tuning. A high-flow intake, ideally with a 4-inch intake from a cold-air box will help reduce restriction and help may reduce intake air temps, 3 inch pipe is recommended for the pressure side of the turbo. You’ll need to remove the factory mass airflow sensor in most standalone ECU setups, converting to a speed-density system. Front-mount intercoolers with 3-inch cores are ideal for keeping intake temps low and avoiding heat soak during high-boost pulls. The design of the intercooler plays a crucial role in how effectively it lowers the air intake temperatures, so it's important to do some research to find the best option and size for your specific application. For 500 - 600hp a good quality 600x300x76mm intercooler should be sufficient.
The exhaust system should be a full 3-inch turbo-back with smooth mandrel bends. Several brands make stainless steel exhaust systems that are both high-flowing and relatively quiet—ideal for street-driven cars, most exhaust shops will be able to custom make an exhaust for your build. Downpipes may need to be custom-fabricated if you’re running a turbo kit that relocates the turbo away from the stock position.
Engine cooling upgrades are vital for reliability. A thicker aluminium radiator from Koyorad or Mishimoto will help maintain coolant temps. A larger external oil cooler is recommended for track use.
Transmission and Drivetrain: Handling the Torque
The 5-speed manual transmission found in Evo IV–IX is relatively strong and, in good condition, can handle 500hp with the right clutch. Evo I–III gearboxes are slightly weaker and often benefit from either a rebuild with new input and output shafts. Both transmissions hold up fine for street use but for track use at 500 - 600hp the best solution is a dog box or sequential transmission.
Both the Evo I - III and IV - IX transmissions can benefit from being shot peened or cry treated. Shot peening and cryogenic treatment both offer significant benefits when applied to automotive transmissions, particularly in high-performance applications. Shot peening involves bombarding the surface of components with small spherical media, inducing compressive stress layers that increase fatigue resistance and help prevent crack initiation. This process enhances durability, especially in gears and shafts subjected to repeated stress cycles. Cryogenic treatment, on the other hand, involves cooling components to extremely low temperatures, typically using liquid nitrogen, to transform retained austenite into martensite and relieve internal stresses. This results in improved wear resistance, dimensional stability, and toughness. When combined, shot peening and cryo treating can significantly extend the lifespan of transmission components.
In the Evo I – III transmissions, 4th gear is typically the first to fail under heavy load, particularly during track use. The gear teeth are prone to stripping, which can result in complete gearbox failure. This weakness stems from a machined recess in the gear to accommodate a bearing, which reduces the amount of material and makes 4th gear structurally weaker than the others in the transmission.
For clutches, Exedy Hyper Twin or Uni Clutch Sport are common options. If your Evo is primarily a street car, a twin-disc organic or carbon clutch will provide good drivability while holding the torque. For the best results it pays to contact your clutch manufacturer so they can guide you on the best solution for you application.
Supporting Mods and Long-Term Reliability
To round out your build, consider a high-quality catch can system, proper crankcase ventilation, and sensors for boost, oil pressure, oil temp, and wideband AFR. For those who plan to track their car or run long pulls, thermal management becomes important. Wrapping or ceramic coating the exhaust manifold and turbo, adding heat shielding around the intake, and installing ducting for the radiator and brakes can make a big difference.
Another good modification is to add a digital dash or gauge to monitor Engine vitals, Link, Haltech and Motec all have good digital dash options, but for a budget friendly option we recommend a AIC Dash or CAN Gauge we have these listed on out website.
https://evolvingmotorsport.co.nz/collections/digital-displays
E throttle is another good upgrade, we use a Bosch DBW throttle body and a Subaru DBW pedal. E throttle has several advantages including Idle control, launch control and anti lag.
While cost can vary depending on how much you do yourself, most Evo builds aiming for 500 - 600hp fall between $17,000 and $40,000 NZD when factoring in parts, labour, fabrication, tuning, and supporting systems.
Final Thoughts
From the raw Evo I to the refined Evo IX MR, every model in the Evolution series can be transformed into a Street or track weapon. These cars are highly modifiable and there is huge aftermarket support around the world, they have proven themselves in almost every form of motorsport. The core principles of the build remain consistent—upgrade the internals, add a larger turbo, support it with adequate fuel and cooling, and ensure everything is tuned by a professional.